Learning to Sew for Beginners Part 5: Choosing a Fabric Continued

Ok, if you read my last post you know that I can clearly talk about fabric all day long. Hopefully that post is helpful to those who are trying to understand the very basics of how fabric is made and what materials it is made from. Now I want to get more specific about what you might see in stores and online when you are buying fabric for a sewing project. When you first start sewing, fabric choices can seem overwhelming and it’s my goal to simplify that a little bit!

Let’s start by imagining that you are shopping for a pattern (it doesn’t matter what kind of pattern; we’ll get to that later). Most fabric stores and online fabric shops will organize their fabric by “type.” Sometimes that “type” refers to fiber content (like a webpage or aisle devoted to linen), sometimes it might refer to how you might use that fabric (like “athletic knits” or “swim knits”) and sometimes it might refer to the weave/knit type (like “twill” or “ribbed knits”). Confusing? It can be when you’re just starting out! Scroll down to see a definition of some of the most common fabric “types” and how you might use them.

Plain weaves: The following fabrics are made using a standard plain weave (i.e. one over, one under, like a basket).

Close-up of a plain weave fabric. 

Linen- Let’s start with an easy one! Here you’ll find standard woven fabric made from linen fibers (check my last post for a reminder of what fiber content means). Linen is a great fabric to start with if you are new to sewing. It is stable, doesn’t slide around a lot while you are cutting and sewing and makes for beautiful and comfortable garments. There is a reason so many sewists love sewing with linen.

Cotton Lawn- A lightweight, plain weave fabric made from cotton. Cotton lawn generally has a high threadcount, making it smooth and crisp to the touch. It is lighter weight than quilting cotton and therefore less stiff and bulky and more appropriate for garment making. Lawn is perfect for shirts and summer dresses. Lawn is also a great fabric for beginner sewists.

Cotton Voile- A very lightweight and sheer plain weave fabric made from cotton. Voile has a lower threadcount than lawn and is much much lighter weight than quilting cotton. It can be used for blouses (they will be sheer), linings, and accessories.

Cotton Shirting- A medium-weight cotton fabric with a crisp, smooth finish, commonly used for tailored shirts and blouses, but can also work for lightweight dresses. Similar to quilting cotton in finish, but lighter weight with better drape. Ideal for beginners because of its stability.

Quilting Cotton- A medium-weight, structured cotton fabric with a firm weave, ideal for quilts, bags, and other craft projects but less suited for drapey garments. It’s so tempting to start sewing clothes with quilting cotton because there are so many fun designs, but it really isn’t the best choice for apparel. Garments will be stiff and won’t have the "professional” appearance that they could have with better fabric.

Rayon Challis- Lightweight, soft, and drapey, rayon is perfect for skirts, dresses, flowy blouses, and camisoles. However, because it is so soft and has so much movement, rayon can be challenging to work with, so it is perhaps not the best choice for a sewist who is just starting out.

Gauze and Double Gauze- Cotton gauze is a very loosely woven fabric and is generally quite thin and see through (think of a cotton gauze bandage). Most often you will see fabric described as “double gauze” which means that there are two layers of gauze stitched together. Double gauze can be flat/smooth or have a crinkly appearance. It is lightweight, so better suited to summer clothing like shirts and dresses. The loose/open weave makes it quite drapey and soft to the touch. Double gauze is a bit of a double edged sword for beginner sewists. On the one hand, the open weave and crinkle texture can make it tricky to work with, but I find that it is a very forgiving fabric (maybe because of those crinkles!) so mistakes are less noticeable. I maybe wouldn’t recommend this for your very first project, but go ahead and try it once you’ve gotten a couple patterns under your belt.

Yarn dyed- Cotton fabrics that can be either light or heavier weight, in which the yarn is dyed before weaving it into fabric. Often the yarn is woven into patterns, though if it is a solid color it can still have some beautiful variation or a heathered appearance. Yarn dyed fabric is special in that the design will show up on both sides of the fabric (as opposed to printed fabric where the design is one sided). Yarn dyed fabrics can be beautiful in garments, just make sure to check the weight of the fabric to see if it is lightweight (better for shirts and dresses) or heavier weight (better for jackets, pants, etc.)

Chambray- A plain-weave cotton fabric made from dyed warp yarn (i.e. the longer, vertical threads) and white weft yarn (i.e. the horizontal threads). Traditionally, chambray was blue, but can now be found in a variety of colors. The addition of the white threads tends to make the colors appear more muted/pastel. Chambray looks a bit like denim, but is lighter weight and less stiff. It’s perfect for shirts, dresses, skirts, pants, short, and anything you could think to make with it! It is also generally easy to work with and a great beginner-friendly fabric.

Wool- Obviously, fabric that is made from wool. This section of the store or website may have some lighter weight options, like sweater knits, but is most likely heavyweight wools for jackets and coats. I may come back to this one in a post about sewing coats!

Flannel- Flannel is distinct in the way it is made, typically woven from cotton and then brushed on one or both sides to create its signature soft, fuzzy surface. This brushing process raises the fibers, giving flannel its warm, slightly textured feel, which sets it apart from smoother fabrics like plain-woven cottons. The brushing not only enhances its softness but also increases its insulating properties, making it a go-to fabric for cooler weather. Who doesn’t love a flannel shirt or flannel PJ pants? Flannel is also super easy to sew with and perfect for beginners!

Canvas- Canvas is a stiff, heavyweight, plain weave fabric, generally made from cotton. Canvas is great for pants or jackets, especially those that are more structured. It can even be treated to be water resistant!

Velvet- Velvet is defined by its plush, soft texture, created through a unique weaving process that sets it apart from other fabrics. It is woven with two layers of fabric simultaneously, which are then cut apart to create a dense pile of short, soft fibers standing upright on the surface. This gives velvet its luxurious, rich feel and distinctive sheen, especially when it catches the light from different angles. Unlike smooth fabrics like satin or plain-woven materials, velvet’s pile adds depth and texture, making it a popular choice for special occasion garments, upholstery, and accessories. Velvet can be made from various fibers, like cotton, silk, nylon, or polyester.

Fancy Weaves: These fabrics are made using different weaving styles to create a particular appearance or finish.

The signature diagonal weave of a twill. 

Satin- Satin stands out due to its unique weave rather than the fibers it’s made from, typically using silk, polyester, or nylon. Unlike other fabrics that have a more uniform texture, satin is created with a weaving technique that places more threads on the surface, resulting in a smooth, glossy finish on one side and a matte underside. This sheen gives satin its luxurious, reflective quality, making it a popular choice for formalwear and evening gowns. The tightly woven structure also contributes to its sleek drape. Satin is very drapey and also notoriously difficult to sew with.

Twill- Twill fabric is distinguished by its diagonal weave pattern. Unlike plain weaves, where the threads cross evenly, twill is woven in a way that creates a visible diagonal rib. Twill is versatile and can range in weight from light to heavy, depending on the fibers used, such as cotton, modal, or Cupro. Cotton twill is a great fabric for beginners who are looking to sew their first pair of pants or maybe a lightweight jacket. It is very stable and easy to work with. Watch out for tencel twills, which are beautiful, but definitely not an easy fabric for beginners.

Denim- Denim is a type of twill fabric, made from cotton. The classic blue color comes from dyeing only the warp threads with indigo, leaving the weft threads white (similar to chambray), which gives denim its iconic faded look over time. Denim, it goes without saying, is usually used for sewing jeans, but could also be used for skirts, dresses, jumpsuits, or jackets. Denim, while thick, is sturdy and relatively easy to sew with.

Sateen- Sateen is a fabric made from cotton that mimics the luxurious sheen and smooth feel of satin through its distinct weaving technique. Unlike regular cotton, which has a matte finish, sateen is woven with a higher number of threads floating on the surface, giving it a lustrous, glossy appearance. This weave creates a soft, silky texture that feels smoother and more polished than plain-woven cotton. While it has a similar sheen to satin, sateen is typically more durable and easier to care for. It is also much easier to sew with as it is not as “slippery” as satin.

Corduroy- Corduroy is a textured fabric known for its distinctive vertical ribs, or "wales," created through a unique weaving and cutting process. Like velvet, corduroy is woven with extra yarn that forms a pile on the surface, but instead of a smooth finish, the pile is cut into parallel ridges, giving the fabric its signature look and feel. These wales can vary in width, with finer wales offering a more refined appearance and wider wales providing a chunkier, more casual look. Made primarily from cotton or cotton blends, corduroy can be found in a variety of weights and colors.

Knits: As discussed in my last post, knit fabric is knitted, the same way you might knit a scarf, except it is done on industrial machines. Because it is knitted, it is stretchy. Generally, if you are buying knits, you will find the following categories:

A sweater in a rib knit. 

Jersey- Jersey knit fabric is a soft, stretchy material made from a single set of yarns knitted together in a pattern that creates a smooth, flexible surface. Typically made from cotton, polyester, or blends, jersey is known for its comfortable, lightweight feel and ability to stretch in both directions. Classic tee-shirts are made from jersey knit.

French Terry- French terry fabric is a soft, knitted fabric similar to jersey but with a unique texture on the inside. It is typically made from cotton or a cotton-blend and features small loops on the inner side, giving it a slightly thicker, more absorbent quality. The outer side is smooth, while the inside loops provide added warmth and comfort without being overly bulky. French terry is perfect for lightweight sweatshirts and pants.

Sweater- Fabric that has been knitted on an industrial machine to resemble a sweater you might hand knit. Available in a variety of fiber content options and weights.

Rib Knit- Rib knit fabric is a type of knit fabric characterized by its textured, vertical ribs that are created by alternating knit and purl stitches. Rib knits can be used for adding cuffs or necklines to a sweatshirt, or can be used to make garments like tee shirts or turtlenecks. Rib knit can vary in width, from fine ribs to wider ones, and is typically made from cotton, polyester, or blends.

Swim/athletic- A light to medium-weight knit fabric made with a high percentage of nylon or spandex, giving it a lot of stretch. The nylon/spandex also makes this fabric fast to dry, thus making it perfect for swimwear or athletic garments.

Ponte- Ponte fabric, also known as ponte de roma, is a thick, double-knit (i.e. two layers of fabric knitted together) fabric that is both durable and stretchy. Made from a blend of fibers like rayon, nylon, and spandex, ponte has a smooth, firm surface. Ponte is only slightly stretchy and holds it shape well, making it a stable knit that can sometimes even be used in woven patterns (shhh, don’t come after me). It is great for pants and jackets.

Scuba- Scuba fabric is a thick, stretchy material that resembles neoprene (i.e. what’s used in wetsuits!) but is typically made from a blend of polyester and spandex. Scuba has a unique appearance as it is both stretchy and structured. It can be a fun option for fitted dresses or garments with structured details.

Whew. Ok, so now you know what you are getting when you wander into any aisle of the fabric store/any page of an online fabric store. There’s still lots more to say, but hopefully that sets you up for success. Good luck and happy sewing!